2014年9月30日星期二

Local and international designers meet in Scottsdale for 2014 Phoenix Fashion Week

Thirteen new emerging designers from around the country will launch their brands at Phoenix Fashion Week at Talking Stick Resort, Oct. 2-4.
This year’s lineup of Emerging Designers were discovered following Phoenix Fashion Week’s successful 10-city tour of the United States, including New York City, San Francisco, Los Angeles, St. Louis, Seattle, Chicago, Dallas and Phoenix.
While the designers come from various cities around the country, Phoenix Fashion Week is thrilled to reveal that for the first time ever, half of the Emerging Designers competing for "Designer of the Year" are locally based in Phoenix. These next “IT” designers will compete for a $10,000 prize package consisting of goods and services to help launch their brand.
"Emerging and Established Designers" set to close each night of fashion week with exclusive couture collections include:
Thursday, Oct. 2:
Emerging Designers:
· Charmosa Swimwear - San Francisco, CA
· Misha Mendicino Designs - Phoenix, AZ
· State Forty Eight - Phoenix, AZ
· Woman's Touch Apparel - Phoenix, AZ
Established Designers:
· Diego Milano: An exclusive, ultra luxury denim collection inspired by rock and roll, designed with pure sophistication.
· FIDM Debut Designer Carol Wong
· FIDM Debut Designer Tylor Leigh
· FINALE: Albert Andrada: This designer recently partnered with well-known brand Ethan Allen to design luxury furnishings + was even the creative mind behind Paris Hilton's stunning white gown for The Grammy's.
Friday, Oct. 3:
Emerging Designers:
· Blackberry Maverick - Colorado Springs, CO
· Atiz- Seattle, WA
· Kismit - Phoenix, AZ
· Schuylark Design - New York City, NY
Established Designers:
· 2012 Designer of the Year Winner - Bri Seeley: This brand is luxury femininity for the iconic women.
· 2013 Designer of the Year Winner - Dolcessa Swimwear: This luxury swimwear brand based out of Las Vegas has been featured numerous times in Sports Illustrated Swim and is designed for the confident woman.
· FINALE: Aris Pico: This couture designer debuted his S/S 2013 collection at Philippine Fashion Week to rave reviews.
Saturday, Oct. 4:
Emerging Designers:
· Adoire by Saba - Phoenix, AZ
· Hues of Ego - Phoenix, AZ
· Jacqueline Nicole - St. Louis, MO
· Lillienne Lang - Phoenix, AZ
· RAYAN - Los Angeles, CA
Established Designers:
· FINALE: Kenneth Harion Couture: This Filipino fashion designer is based in Kuwait and already has become a celebrity favorite, drawing recent interest from Beyonce.
· FINALE: Yen: Elite luxury couture fashions perfectly describes the sheer artistry of Yen's designs. He recently showed his collection at London Fashion Week in 2014.
· FINALE: Rocky Gathercole: As Phoenix Fashion Week's memorable finale designer in 2013 and a favorite of celebrities including Katy Perry, he is returning for another jaw-dropping collection that gives the term 'runway presentation' a whole new meaning.
“If you look up the definition of challenge, it’s a competition or contest. That’s exactly what the Emerging Designer Challenge has become, acting as a launch pad for the best emerging designers in the nation. To have international established brands on the same runway, gives Phoenix Fashion Week global fashion credibility,” Executive Director Brian Hill said.
Become a fan of Phoenix Fashion Week on Facebook to stay up-to-date with future events.
For additional information about Phoenix Fashion Week and interview requests, contact Melissa Rein.
ABOUT PHOENIX FASHION WEEK
Phoenix Fashion Week is the leading fashion industry event in the Southwest. The organization’s mission is to bridge the gap between national and international designers and premier retailers and top fashion media. Phoenix Fashion Week’s ultimate goal is to garner global exposure for Arizona’s fashion industry. Through educational fashion seminars, year-round fashion events, and charitable partnerships, Phoenix Fashion Week is gaining rapid acclaim for its community-service efforts and for infusing world-class innovation into the Southwest.
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2014年9月24日星期三

fearless fashion designer Destani Hoffman does it her way

At the Mobile Fashion Week finale on Saturday, Sept. 27 at Hargrove Engineers + Constructors on S. Royal St., show-goers will watch Destani Hoffman's cool and defiant designs conquer the catwalk.
And some of the looks will be looking right back at them.
A couple of the rule-breaking artist's dresses are spattered with spooky-chic plastic eyes. It makes perfect sense for a designer with a deliciously skewed view of style.
"Love it or hate it the girl's got vision! Fashion Week is giving her a platform to show her own point of view and we are so enjoying seeing that on the runway," said MFW founder and creative director Richard McGill Hamilton. "When you see a designer with such a distinct point of view hit the runway there will be chatter, but if people aren't talking then you are not the center of attention."
At last year's MFW finale, Hoffman, a graduate of Spanish Fort High School and The Savannah College of Art and Design, presented an alternate fashion reality filled with velvety and outrageously frilly pieces of surreal and crazily proportioned eye candy; not very wearable, but highly watchable.
This year's collection, although still avant-garde, will be easier for show-goers to add to their wardrobes.
"It's a little more wearable than my collection was last year. Instead of doing a lot of showpieces I did a lot of separates that you can build with when you put them on," she said. "When you put them on a hanger they look like a salable item, but on the runway I can style them so they're crazy. I'm trying to toe the line of acceptability but still spit in the face of what people think is right. "
The basics behind menswear were the jumping-off point for the collection.
"I drafted everything according to menswear techniques, with a ruler on paper," Hoffman said. "Really, I tried to play on the strict rule that society has put on wearable fashion, and a lot of that has to do with tailoring to the body and clean lines and trying to be simple. I just wanted to kind of throw it in their face, like this is whatI'm gonna do."
Hoffman's MFW show will be a mind-expanding mini style revolution sure to get tongues wagging and jaws dropping.
The runway will rock with sexy, slick and shiny pleather, PVC and vinyl layered with tantalizing textures and dominatrix-like details including metal collars, chains, spikes and buckles. Ultra-modern accessories will include hard, clear acrylic box purses and oversize vinyl envelope clutches.
Hoffman has enlisted both male and female models as her brave style soldiers.
"The guys are wearing kilt-like skirts and other androgynous looks to up the ante a little," Hoffman said. "The looks are just less feminine than the the rest of the collection."
In contrast to the exaggerated, in-your-face fashions, the collection's colors are cool and understated.
"There aren't a lot of warm tones. It's mostly white to a really dark grey. And I have pops of lilac," Hoffman said. "A lot of designers are focusing on blue and indigo this year, but I'm all about lilac."
One of the great things about the collection is people can adjust the attire to fit their own fashion persona.
The collars, chains and other extreme embellishments, are "all for show. If someone's not quite as fashion forward as someone who would like to wear a metal collar, they can take it off," Hoffman said. "I'm taking my ideas and giving you no reason at all not to be able to wear them. "
There is also another dimension to the collection that MFW audiences won't get to experience.
"My collection is actually twice the size of last year's and half of it is going to be in Mobile Fashion Week, and the other half I'm entering for Charleston Fashion Week," Hoffman said. "The Charleston part is more focused on evening wear."
Building her brand
Between the last and current MFW, Hoffman has been channeling her talent and creativity into promoting her own clothes and a cause close to her heart.
"Since last year I've really just been trying to expand my portfolio," she said. "I've done a lot of work with Eye Heart World, because when I met them I was so inspired and I had to get that out."
Eye Heart World is a Mobile Fashion Week charity that raises awareness about human trafficking and raises money for victims through putting on events and selling original apparel, purses and other accessories.
Hoffman was strongly drawn to the cause when she learned about it at last year's MFW, which was the first time Eye Heart World participated.
Right after last year's MFW, Hoffman and Eye Heart World co-founder Season Russo met for coffee and brainstormed collaborations between the non-profit and the daring designer.
A fulfilling partnership was formed, and Hoffman devoted herself to spreading the word about Eye Heart World with her own inimitable style.
"Destani Hoffman is not only one of the most passionate individuals about her work, but I've been blown away by the support and involvement she's put in to Eye Heart World," Russo said. "When we first talked about Eye Heart World, I could see her wheels turning in regards to how she can use her design talent to spread awareness and help others. I'm inspired by her drive to do something great not just for her gain but, for others in need."
Hoffman conceptualized Eye Heart World's spring 2014 fundraising gala at the Centre For The Living Arts. She created an emotionally evocative series of charcoal drawings depicting the struggle of a victim of human trafficking which was displayed at the event.
She also produced a promotional fashion shoot featuring Eye Heart World items.
Hoffman has the resources of Mobile's Six Degrees Marketing behind her. She works there, and her mother owns the agency. Six Degrees has taken Eye Heart World on as a charity client.
"We wanted to feature their products in a more fashionable way, so we did an editorial shoot and I directed it. I was also their stylist," Hoffman said. "They're really into up-cycling so we only bought re-used clothing for the editorial."
During the past year Hoffman also devoted a considerable chunk of time to creating a dramatic and decadent editorial spotlighting her 2013 MFW collection.
The editorial, shot at Fort Gaines by local fashion photographer Kathleen Clipper, is an artfully audacious twist on a red-hot pop culture craze.
"We took my clothes and did this crazy hair and crazy makeup and I told the models, 'Guess what? You're in the 'Hunger Games' and you're in District 13 and I want you to sip tea on the ruins of a society,'" Hoffman said. "We had them crouching in old tunnels, lounging on Victorian furniture on top of broken and cracked rubble and posing against cracked walls."
Hoffman submitted the photos to several magazines, and they were snapped up by an edgy international publication.
"A few of the pages got published in a Berlin-based web and print magazine called Superior Mag," she said. "I feel like I'm all over the place."
The rise of a runway rebel
Ideas like post-apocalyptic fashion shoots come quite naturally to Hoffman.
She's been somewhat of an avant-gardian ever since she sewed her first piece in a Spanish Fort High School home-ec class.
"I did a lot of art stuff in middle school and high school," she said in a previousAL article. "I've always been really into craft fashion design; making fashion out of trash bags and paper cups."
Prior to her memorable 2013 Mobile Fashion Week debut, Hoffman sharpened her skills as a student at New York's Parsons, The New School of Design and Savannah College of Art and Design in Georgia.
With a solid fashion foundation and the experience of creating two full original collections and a series of innovative editorials, Hoffman is poised to become a wildly influential force in the fashion world.
And of course, her strategy for world fashion domination includes a turn on Lifetime's popular fashion reality competition, "Project Runway."
"I tried out last year and didn't get in," Hoffman said. "Next time I will have such a crazy big portfolio to give them it's going to be awesome. I will give them no reason to say no."
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2014年9月15日星期一

Colin’s Column | Hussein Chalayan, London’s Most Radical Fashion Designer

Hussein Chalayan is a unique talent. As London’s only really radical fashion designer, he holds an honoured but precarious position in a fashion scene where original thought and commitment can often come second to sales. The fact that Chalayan has, at times, had financial troubles is as much an indictment of the fashion industry as it is a badge of his integrity. In fact, in my 40-year search for a designer with real intellect, he alone stands out. I would wager that if anyone in a century’s time shows the slightest interest in today’s fashion, it will be Chalayan’s thoughtful approach that intrigues them.
Chalayan does not compromise, nor has ever done so throughout a career that began with a bang. His graduate collection at Central Saint Martins, entitled “The Tangent Flows,” contained clothing he had buried in the ground then exhumed, just before the show, in a ritual of resurrection. It provoked shock, even outrage, along with a great deal of sceptical merriment. But, importantly, it also attracted the attention of influential London boutique Browns, who displayed the collection in its windows, and Hussein, steadfast in the face of criticism, weathered the storm, because even then he knew his worth.
“My brand has given a lot to fashion and I believe fashion has not always reciprocated. I chose fashion over other forms of creativity because I thought I could bring something different to it, a new way of thinking,” says the designer. “As it is, I have tried to broaden fashion beyond simply clothes. I think it is important to recognise that, intellectually, fashion is a small world.”
Hussein Chalayan, Spring/Summer 2009 | Source: Hussein Chalayan
Indeed, Chalayan’s work — which will soon be shown as part of “The Politics of Fashion / The Fashion of Politics,” a group show at Design Exchange in Toronto — often merges clothing and the human body with technology, science, architecture, music and cinema. It has been referred to as wearable art, rather than fashion; his shows can be more like performance than traditional catwalk presentations.
“He is the penultimate artist,” says Shauna Levy, president of Design Exchange. “He happened to choose fashion as his platform, but the reality is that he probably would be equally as successful if he had chosen any another platform simply because he is so multi-dimensional. His collections are truly an intersection of creativity — be it fashion, architecture, lighting design, multimedia or otherwise.”
All of which hasn’t made things easy commercially. “I must admit that it has been a long and, at times, slow journey,” says Chalayan. “After 20 years, I can say that my work has been a complex combination of difficulty and joy. In this business the restrictions of money and time can make the job of an independent designer very difficult.”
When he was young, Chalayan’s life was divided between Cyprus and England, though Istanbul, the centuries-old crossroads of the world, was always his magic city and still feeds his imagination now. Indeed, it is his eclectic background, married to his endless curiosity, that keeps Chalayan’s creativity rich enough to simultaneously inform the direction of sportswear brand Puma, where he is creative director, and historic fashion house Vionnet, for which he designs demi-couture — all alongside his work on his own label (in which Puma now owns a majority stake). Personally, I hope that Chalayan stays at Vionnet as long as Galliano did at Dior because I feel that he has the tact and understanding to make the house his own, whilst respecting the aesthetic of the founder, much as Galliano did.
Chalayan is one of a small band of true fashion thinkers that includes Rei Kawakubo, Gareth Pugh and Rick Owens: people who are not just making clothes to sell but, despite huge commercial pressures, using clothes as an artistic instrument. Like them, Chalayan has creative will made of iron, but he can also be besieged by doubts and questions. He is never complacent and rarely relaxed. Friends say he has a wry, down-to-earth sense of humour. But when he is working, it’s all-consuming.
“For me, the fashion show is a manifesto and that in itself is my way of following my heart and my brain,” says Chalayan. “Although the starting point of all new collections is the last collection, moving on from there is a bit like the weather — there is no pattern and no predictability. There’s a sense almost as if there is another law, another reality, out there in the air and I bring it down to earth where it develops into a wondrous bubble; one that was there all the time, waiting for me to activate.”
“I am a compositional designer,” he declares. “I play compositions on the body with my clothes through the fabric. I am interested in the relationship between form and body. A good design relates to the body; a poor design just sits on the body. This is in my mind all the time.”
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2014年9月11日星期四

New software streamlines fashion department

Baylor’s apparel design and merchandising students will soon have the chance to bring their designs to life with the latest software in visual fashion design.
Fashion-design majors entering the spring semester of their senior year work with fabric design and bring their imagination and creativity to the forefront using the new Optitex 3D software.
Students put their designs on a 3D avatar, displaying what the clothes will look like on the body. Students can choose the height, weight, skin color and even the hair color of the avatar wearing their designs.
The software holds many benefits and advantages for Baylor fashion students, one being it allows students to have faster, more efficient work.
Apparel design and merchandising students will improve the quality of their designs with the help of a new software called Optitex 3D. The program allows users to display clothing designs on a 3D customized model.Constance Atton | Lariat Photographer
“For the design students, their first sample will be of better quality, because they’ll be able to see mistakes on the avatar,” said Jaynie Fader, apparel design and merchandising senior lecturer. “Merchandising majors will also find the software extremely helpful because of the marketing aspect.”
Academy Sports and Outdoors donated the funds for the software this summer, after specifically choosing Baylor to receive the store’s assistance.
Academy released its plans to assist Baylor fashion in the spring.
“They chose Baylor and came to us,” Fader said. “They really like our undergrads, and many are employees or interns.”
The Optitex 3D software is not the first technological advance Baylor fashion has held over other universities. Baylor is already one of the only universities to have a fabric printer, various Adobe products, Gerber WebPDM, which is an online product data management software, and many storyboard and catalog pages.
“With having a top-notch technology aspect to our programs, Baylor is ahead of the curve when it comes to the latest technology and procedures that companies have,” said Dallas senior Kendal Carse, fashion student ambassador.
Fashionista rated Baylor in the top 20 fashion departments in the nation in 2011, while Fashionschools.org rated Baylor 35th of 75 apparel and merchandising programs within the nation.
Fader said she believes the fashion department’s technology lab is what has landed Baylor in the prestigious university ranking it holds.
“I’ve been here for nine years, and our technology is the reason for our top listings,” Fader said. “Usually we’re one of the only schools within the Midwest to be listed.”
The fashion department’s lab and climbing ranks have led many students within the department to come on board for the program.
Stony Point, N.Y., senior Madison Zucker said she was one of those students.
“Learning about these rankings is actually what led me to look at Baylor in the first place,” Zucker said.
Students have recognized the technology lab the Baylor fashion department possesses, and are thankful for the advantages it gives them, Carse said.
“Because of its lab, Baylor has built a reputation among companies that seek after and hire Baylor graduates,” Carse said.
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2014年9月2日星期二

New York Fashion Week Guide: Who and What to Know

As the United States Open winds down to its final chaotic days, another late-summer New York spectacle takes its place, one with its own crowds, prized seating spots, celebrity sightings and, of course, winners and losers. Yes, we are talking about New York Fashion Week. The spring/summer season is upon us, with more than 100 shows taking place between now and next Thursday, followed by the same again in London, Milan and Paris until the first week of October. Fashion month has become a cultural phenomenon as globally pervasive as the ginkgo tree. You can’t avoid it, so you may as well embrace it, and find out what you should be ready to discuss during cocktail parties and water cooler conversations everywhere. Indubitably, questions of geopolitics and the stagnant European economy are more important, but think of it this way: What happens at fashion week will inform in large part the shape — literally — your identity will take six months from now. So in the interests of self-awareness (plus useful banter), following is my crib sheet for what to watch, who to know and where to focus during the collections.
While you can’t blame fashion’s ever-increasing move into entertainment on Ari Emanuel, the fact that the Hollywood agency William Morris Endeavor, which Mr. Emanuel co-runs, bought IMG last December, and along with it ownership of New York, London and Milan fashion weeks (among others), is surely speeding along the transformation. As it happens, Mr. Emanuel will be in the New York Fashion Week audience this season (the William Morris folks tell me he is very excited to come to shows) in part because fashion week will move out of Lincoln Center at the end of 2016, and the powers that be are beginning to think about what shape it will take next. In the meantime Mr. Emanuel should not feel too much like a fish out of water, as this season a number of collections are taking an alternative approach to their presentations that may seem more familiar to him than to the fashion pack. (Maybe they are thinking of it as an audition?)
The London designer Gareth Pugh, for example, who normally shows in Paris, is coming to New York as part of the Lexus Design Disrupted program, and promising “an immersive live performance” to open the week on Thursday. It’s unclear exactly what that means (you have to see it to understand, I guess), but according to the designer, it will involve dancers and video.
Then, on Sunday, a mere few days after Mr. Pugh’s happening, Opening Ceremony will debut a 30-minute one-act play directed and co-written by Spike Jonze, featuring their costumes — sorry, collection. And on Monday, there’s a double bill. First, Olivier Saillard, the curator of the Palais Galliera in Paris, the city’s fashion museum, is putting on a piece of performance art in conjunction with the Alliance Francaise and MADE Fashion Week. Entitled “Models Never Talk,” it will feature seven French supermodels telling stories about extraordinary dress they have worn — giving voice to fashion’s normally voiceless. Next, a few hours later, Polo Ralph Lauren will hold an unspecified “fashion event” (note: not show) in Central Park.
Forget the often complained about reality-TV-ification of fashion week courtesy of the street style craze; this takes the concept to a whole different level. It’s like “House of Cards” versus “America’s Got Talent.”
Names to Know
In New York, Michael Herz will debut his first runway collection as artistic director for Diane von Furstenberg. Mr. Herz was formerly co-creative director of Bally, and he met Ms. von Furstenberg when he curated her 40th anniversary “Journey of a Dress” exhibition in Los Angeles. This is something of a watershed moment for her — post-anniversary, she has an autobiography being released this autumn, and a reality TV show on E! — and one of the questions hovering over the brand is what happens next. The show, to be held Sunday, may provide some answers.
Also bowing behind-a-brand in New York this season is Anthony Vaccarello at Versus Versace, the latest hipster name to collaborate with the brand, a.k.a. be crowned as a hot-up-and-comer by Donatella Versace. In this, the 30-something Belgian-Italian designer, who shows his eponymous line, known for its ‘80s-edged micro-hemlines and slick tailoring, in Paris, follows JW Anderson and Christopher Kane, both of whom have now hooked up with luxury conglomerates (LVMH and Kering respectively). Draw your own conclusions.
Meanwhile, industry watchers will also be looking for answers at Proenza Schouler, thanks to recent rumors — thus far unsubstantiated — that LVMH is interested in buying a stake in the brand. If one of the group’s well-known executives were to show up in the audience, it would likely set off a firestorm of renewed speculation.
In London, eyes will be on Christopher Bailey, making his debut as both chief executive and chief creative officer at Burberry. At issue: whether the added pressures of being a chief executive have had any effect on the aesthetic direction of the brand. In the game of Who’s Wooing Who? Simone Rocha, known to be a designer atop the wish list of many a large group, will likewise have an audience to watch (ooh ... is that a Kering talent spotter I see? An LVMH executive?). And it will be interesting to parse the difference LVMH mentorship and money (300,000 euros) has made for Thomas Tait, recipient of the Group’s first Young Designers Prize.
As for Milan, the new name on the schedule, or behind an old name on the schedule, is Jil Sander’s Rodolfo Paglialunga, who has the unenviable task of reviving a house that became something of a fashion punch line when its founder left last October for the third time (an anonymous team designed the collection for autumn/winter). His only competition for buzzy-generating brand of the week is, perhaps surprisingly, Roberto Cavalli, whose long journey toward selling a minority stake appears to finally be coming to fruition. Will some new investors be in the front row? This is the question.
Which brings us to the last leg of the marathon (phew!) otherwise known as Paris. There the debuts to watch will be Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, where a wholesale revamp and up-tiering of the brand seems to be underway; David Koma at Thierry Mugler; and Julie de Libran at Sonia Rykiel. All three are tasked with breathing new life into floundering names whose to-ing-and-fro-ing under various designers for the last few seasons has been meaningfully eroding their brand equity.
Finally, a farewell of sorts will take place at Hermès, where Christophe Lemaire will reveal his swan song for the brand (he is leaving to concentrate on his own line). He hasn’t been there that long — only four years — and he never really rocked the aesthetic Birkin boat, so audience tears will probably not be forthcoming à la Tom Ford departure from Gucci, but they will be watching the faces of family members CEO Axel Dumas (chief executive) and Pierre-Alexis Dumas (artistic director) to try to understand whether Mr. Lemaire left on the best, or slightly less salubrious, terms. Fittingly, it is the last big show of not only Paris, but the whole season. From endings come new beginnings.
Trend to Know: Tech
While changes in silhouettes and skirt length will indubitably occur thanks to all of the above, some of the loudest style buzz is actually emanating from the fashion/tech arena. This week, Intel is set to unveil its smart bracelet, a bangle studded with semiprecious gems, designed by Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, while at Vivienne Tam’s show on Sunday, a self-charging iPhone case created in collaboration with wireless specialist Zeusé will appear on the runway. But the Internet is rife with speculation that at their event on Tuesday in Cupertino, Calif., Apple is finally going to reveal its long-awaited foray into wearable tech, complete with creative mock-ups of what it may look like. The company is not saying anything other than, and I quote the invitation, “wish we could say more.” But if they fulfill expectations, it may well be the biggest fashion event of the season. Even if it is taking place on the opposite coast from Lincoln Center and an ocean away from the European style capitals. This season, the runway increasingly seems like a state of mind.
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