2015年4月28日星期二

Houston teen shows sexy, free-spirited fashion collection before heading to London

With finals and graduation approaching, you would think that Episcopal High School senior Amir Taghi would have enough to do without presenting an elaborate runway show at his parents' Tanglewood home.
But the 19-year-old has a real passion for fashion, so he staged a New York-style presentation highlighting his fall winter collection, featuring 13 looks in dark colors with intricate lace trim, tulle detail and organza overlays that lent an air of mystery and intrigue to the models wearing them.
A stickler for detail, Taghi marked each seat that lined the runway in several rooms with the calligraphed name of the more than 150 guests, including Diane Lokey Farb, Chloe Dao, Monsour Taghdisi and Henry Richardson, Neal Hamil, Jana Arnoldy, Lindley Arnoldy, Beth Muecke, Yvonne Cormier, Ursaline Hamilton, Erika Bagwell, and the designer's proud parents, Fariba and Iraj Taghi.
Amir Taghi Fall 2015
Also on hand were Tatiana Massey, owner of the chic Laboratoria boutique, Tootsies creative director Fady Armanious, Martine Weitz, Danielle Cullen, Duyen Huynh, Sima Ladjevardian, Leisa Holland Nelson, Beth Muecke, Roz Pactor, Maryam Afshari andAli Taghi.
Dao, who knows a thing or two about fashion with a thriving label and a store bearing her name, praised the collection as "a lot sexier" and a dramatic departure for Taghi, who has shown several previous collections in Houston and New York.
"My whole thing is individualism," Taghi explained. "Each girl has a individualistic style. She needs to show herself the way she wants to show herself. And I'm there to help her along the way."
Taghi said that with a new seamstress, "I felt a lot freer to do whatever I wanted. I had no restrictions. And since (the collection) was so much smaller, I was able to develop things at a deeper level than before."
Normally a fashion show features anywhere from 25 to 45 looks, but Taghi concentrated on only 13 styles, although many looks feature several pieces that can be mixed and matched with an existing wardrobe.
The small collection, created with luxurious fabrics, opens with a velvet and satin cape paired with a lace skirt that sets a sophisticated tone. Among the other highlights are body-hugging cigarette pants with a tulle-trimed black mink crop, black stretch velvet bell bottom pants with lace detail paired with a floral cloque top cut high to expose the midriff, and a plunging V-neck jersey dress with cutouts along the side.
The consensus among the Houston fashion crowd was that Taghi had upped his game, with improvements in style and quality, along with a darker, sexier attitude.
He is now headed off to the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London, where he will study fashion design for the next six years. The school is home to such prestigious alumni as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Stella McCartney, so Taghi's supporters can hardly wait to see the changes in store as the young designer is exposed to the world's best fashion training.
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2015年4月23日星期四

Students of Distinction: Kaitlin Dawson

Kaitlin Dawson has been described as an extraordinary young woman who has demonstrated a talent for art and an interest in volunteer service. She has overcome tremendous personal challenges to not only graduate on time but also accomplish success.
She started off her freshman year at the top of her class but an accident in a physical education class in the spring led to a traumatic brain injury. For six months, Dawson could not leave her home, having to spend most of her time in the dark in order for her brain to recover.
As a result of the trauma, Dawson struggled with health consequences such as memory issues and lack of focus, which was impacting her academics. She also struggled emotionally as she had to give up activities such as lacrosse and tennis.
“My identity was deeply rooted in my activities and my grades,” she said.
Dawson recovered her credits by taking extra classes, and she immersed herself in other interests, such as art and Tacoma Youth Chorus. She credits her faith in God with being able to stay strong throughout.
“I’ve been able to overcome what I’d gone through and have stayed positive and happy,” she said.
“Instead of spending time in concerns, I spent it on choir and art, and solidified my passion for arts and fashion.”
One of her many extracurricular commitments has been the school’s Destination Imagination team, which won state competitions and competed globally.
“It involves everything I love. I love being creative and using critical problem solving,” she said. “I also like acting and performing, and it combines all of that.”
As part of the Tacoma Youth Chorus, Dawson has performed around Europe. She is also a talented nature photographer who has been selling her art at craft fairs.
“She is an inspiration to others, is self-motivated and can be relied upon to get a job done,” said English teacher Karen Floyd. “She is goal-driven and willing to persevere that for which she aspires.”
Fashion has been one of Dawson’s interests and she has job-shadowed at two fashion companies, learning both the business and the creative sides. That experience confirmed her desire to pursue fashion as a career.
Dawson plans to study visual arts, with an emphasis on photography, at Pacific Lutheran University. She then hopes to attend the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in California.
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2015年4月15日星期三

DYLAN'S CANDY BAR AND HAVAIANAS FETE FLIP-FLOP COLLABORATION

Stepping into Dylan's Candy Bar at The Grove in Los Angeles is like stepping into a rainbow-drenched candy wonderland — complete with lollipop trees, candy-cane-striped walls and enough sugary, delicious sweets to make your dentist cry. The lifestyle brand — created 14 years ago by Dylan Lauren, daughter of fashion designer Ralph Lauren — is comparable only to Willy Wonka's mythical chocolate factory, which Lauren admitted was a big influence on the store's dreamy design. So when the brand partnered with flip-flop company Havaianas for two limited-edition sandal designs, it was no surprise that the resulting shoes were as vibrant and colorful as the candy stores themselves.
“We like to partner with companies who get our vision — who get candy and fashion and art and pop culture,” explained Dylan at the Brazilian Carnival-themed launch of the collaboration on Saturday. “Havaianas was a perfect match for us because everyone loves flip-flops, and everyone loves candy, and we’re able to put our candy designs on the flip-flops.”
Dylan Lauren
Lollipops, a classic confectioner's staple, were also a big inspiration for the rainbow “whirly pop” design of the sandals, which Dylan noted were perfect for music-festival season. “I gave a lot of people flip-flops for Coachella,” she told Pret-a-Reporter. “I think it’s just an easy, fun wear, and it’s sort of a little hippie and artsy.”
And as for what candies pair best with warm flip-flop weather? Dylan dished that her favorite summer treats include rather unconventional gummies. “I’m in to these raspberry feet — they’re gummy feet — and Swedish fish, I love.”
Dylan’s Candy Bar’s past collaborations with brands like LeSportsac and Sanrio prove that fashion runs in the family. But as to whether or not that family includes Kanye West — who recently joked in an interview with T Magazine that Ralph Lauren was his daddy — has yet to be determined.
“He’s a really sweet guy!” Dylan noted of the rapper and/or possible adopted brother. “I only met him for a second, and I like his music. And [the Wests] love candy!”
The flip-flops, which are available in both Havaianas and Dylan’s Candy Bar stores, as well asonline, are priced at $30 per pair and come in youth and adult sizes.
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2015年4月13日星期一

How Kendra Scott Created a Multimillion-Dollar Jewelry Empire

Kendra Scott’s entrepreneurial career was launched out of a spare bedroom in Austin, Texas. It was 2002, and Scott had just given birth. Bored and on bed rest, she withdrew $500 and bought the materials to make earrings. At this point, she’d been making jewelry as gifts for friends for years, as she was frustrated that the only available options at retailers were bookended by high-fashion, expensive pieces and trendy, low-quality pieces with nothing but blank space in between.
Why not, she thought, go about filling the gap? “I put that first jewelry collection in a tea box, put my son in a baby Bjorn and we went store to store writing down orders,” Scott says. At the last store she visited that day, she had to sell her original samples in order to buy the materials to make the orders she’d just filled. During those early days, Scott sold her car and took out multiple personal loans, funneling the funds into her nascent business.
A single mother raising two boys, nagging worries often kept her up at night. “There were so many times I was afraid I was going to lose everything…I remember negotiating with my landlord on when I could pay rent. I had nothing to back me up,” she says. “Failure wasn't an option. I had to succeed for them.”
It wasn’t clear at the time but all those sleepless nights were worth it. From its humbling beginnings in a tea box, Kendra Scott Design has become a multimillion-dollar business. Last year, the company took in $75 million in revenue and is on track to take in more than $110 million this year. Meanwhile, Scott predicts her employee count will mushroom from its current 350 to 500 by late 2015 as more stores open (currently there are 20, but by the end of the year, there will be 38 retail locations.)
These days “I sleep a lot better at night,” Scott says.
A distinctive style
At first, the business’s growth was continuous but slow. In 2008, Scott finally had the resources to design and cut a uniquely shaped stone: The Danielle earring, a large, distinctive slab, was born. Still one of the company’s best sellers, the earring, retailing at $60, was an instant hit. “It was the tipping point,” Scott says. Like other brand trademarks, such as the Tory Burch flat or the Longchamp nylon tote, the Danielle earring is instantly identifiable. It started showing up in magazines and on red carpets, worn by celebrity fans such as Mindy Kaling, Brooklyn Decker and Sofia Vergara.
In 2010, Kendra Scott Design opened its first retail store in Austin, Texas. After that, growth accelerated rapidly: Revenue exploded from $1.7 million in 2010 to $24 million in 2013, while the number of locations grew from one to nine.
Going from being the only employee to managing hundreds of people has been something of an education by fire: “Every day I wake up and I'm running a company bigger than it was the night before,” she says.
From the beginning, Scott’s philosophy was to aggressively seek out advice from people she admired: "A lot of people think it's a sign of weakness, but the greatest sign of strength is asking for help. And it’s a natural instinct for people to want to help other people.” She approached big names “thinking they would say no,” including Bill Fields, the former CEO of Walmart, with questions about manufacturing, and Cynthia Harris, the ex-head of Gap North America, for insight on selecting retail locations. Despite their status, both were generous with their time.
Scott has worked hard to fill in her blind spots with smart hires. In 2010, with the company on the precipice of hockey-stick growth, she hired Lon Weingart who came with extensive retail experience, as her CFO despite pushback from the company’s HR director, who was concerned that they couldn’t afford him. She stopped paying herself, in order to bring Weingart onboard.
Of course, as with any business, there have been missteps. In 2011, the company opened its third retail location on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. “It was a vanity store,” Scott sighs. Despite a glitzy celebrity-filled opening party, there wasn’t enough sustained interest, and the store closed shortly thereafter.
Now when selecting a new market, she makes the decision based on where her customers are, judging from online and wholesale purchases. The brand enjoys the most brand recognition in the South (particularly Texas, where 10 of its stores are located) but is slowly expanding outward, with stores launching in major markets such as Washington D.C., Chicago and Los Angeles.
Scott is also considering a New York City location for 2016 but first she needs to get the word out to the East coast state, something she is working on.
DIY design
In March, Scott did a pop-up Color Bar store at 50 Varick St. in Manhattan. Bowls of sparkling jewels were arranged by color around a central table, as cheery attendants in white lab coats circulated, helping guests use the large touchscreens arranged around the room to custom design rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces from 26 stone colors and 23 silhouettes. These one-of-a-kind designs will set customers back anywhere between $45 and $350, although most items fall inside the $50 to $75 price range. While the New York City Color Bar was a one-night only operation, it exists permanently online, as well as at all Kendra Scott's existing retail locations. (Once a design is finalized, it is set in-store, meaning that shoppers can customize a piece and wear it home within minutes.)
The goal is to make shopping an interactive experience. Each store has its own full-time events coordinator, and Scott estimates that about 10 percent of revenue comes from the Color Bar, while 15 percent of in-store revenue is made via private group events. “You'll hear the champagne popping… there's always something going on at our stores. That’s a very big driver of our business," she says. “In today's retail world, you've got to create reasons for people to come in. Just opening your store and waiting isn't going to do it.”
Eventually, Scott would like to apply her personal aesthetic and shopping philosophy beyond jewelry. In 2016, she plans on launching new products that will move the company towards becoming a bonafide lifestyle brand.
Family values
In line with these grand ambitions, Scott just signed a new lease on a 43,000 square foot space in Austin for the company's corporate headquarters. "Vogue meets Google" is the envisioned setup for the office, which translates to a sleek design plus tech-like perks such as free yoga and a juice and manicure bar. Beyond aesthetics, Scott wants the office to be inviting for babies and children; there will be a designated breast-pumping room, a TV nook reserved for cartoons and a wall dedicated to pictures of employees' babies. She estimates that 95 percent of her corporate staff is female, many of whom have young children – and she never wants anyone to feel as if they need to choose between work and family life.
If anything, Scott feels that her success proves the distinction between work and family life doesn't need to so rigid. She wants to meet her employees' families; she wants to meet their kids.
"Yeah, bring your baby to work with you!" she tells new hires. "I got to do it, so OK, now you can too."
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2015年4月7日星期二

The mad unreality of women's fashion

We get a lot of press releases about new scientific research at the paper.
So many, in fact, it's impossible to get to all of them for columns or stories. Sometimes it's because the research is so obscure it seems almost arcane, but most of the time it is just a matter of human resources and deadlines.
On Tuesday Brock University sent a release about some marketing research about fashion and models, which is not the kind of thing that would usually grab my attention. I normally rank fashion along side golf and televised poker as things I find so boring they could cast me into a deep coma.
But, (and please pay attention to this part public relations type people), its nearly clever headline was enough to keep me reading.
A model presents a creation by French designer Lea Peckre as part of her Spring/Summer 2015 women's ready-to-wear collection during Paris Fashion Week September 23, 2014. France's government is likely to back a bill banning excessively thin fashion models as well as potentially fining the modelling agency or fashion house that hires them and sending the agents to jail, the health minister said on Monday. Style-conscious France, with its fashion and luxury industries worth tens of billions of euros (dollars), would join Italy, Spain and Israel which all adopted laws against too-thin models on catwalks or in advertising campaigns in early 2013. Picture taken September 23, 2014.    REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes  (FRANCE - Tags: FASHION POLITICS SOCIETY)
"End of the super-skinny model? Brock study finds size 6 models more marketable that size 0 models."
My first thought is "There is a size zero?"
How is zero, the total absence of anything, a flippin' size of clothing? Zero is nothing. That is why it is called zero.
Have we really reached a point of cultural disfunction where we are saying to women they need to fight into a size so small it could only exist in some sort of quantum reality?
How does a sales pitch for this madness work? "To fit into this size non-existent dress ladies, all the molecules in your body have to be compressed by the gravitational tidal waves of a supermassive blackhole. Unfortunately, this will make you very dead, but at least you don't have to wear a size up!"
But I digress.
The research done by Brock marketing professor Kai-Yu Wang did point to something interesting. Wang found that the women he studied, aged 18 to 25, preferred clothing models that were "average sized" - which is to say size six.
The super skinny-type model has become an issue of late. France is joining several European nations in banning the use of detrimentally thin models in advertising over concerns they have on body image, self-esteem and the connection that advertising has on the rates of anorexia and other eating disorders.
Wang wanted know if women actually preferred that skinny look in marketing aimed at them.
Turns out, they don't. The women preferred the "average" looking models.
Ultimately, Wang says marketers would be more successful if they used this "average sized" models rather than the super-skinny models, which are often the norm.
Wang sees this as perhaps a positive step forward when it comes to how we use the female body image to sell things.
Wang is probably right about that, but there is a lot more going on here.
Women's clothing sizes are numbers that have no bearing on reality. (Did I mention the size zero?) When I was a kid, the holy grail of fashion sizes for women was size 8. Which is now a 6 thanks to a marketing shell-game played by the fashion industry. Which is crazy.
So I am a little skeptical that a size-six fashion model is representative of the body of the average woman. It might be slightly more reality-like, but that might be about it.
Besides, the insane standards of beauty that advertising promotes has less to do with fictional sizes than the magic of computers.
How an "average" or so-called "plus size" model looks in advertising has been so digitally manipulated they aren't even semi-realistic representations of a human female. Lips of made thicker, skin tone is changed, legs and necks are lengthened, eyes are made larger and so on.
It is a cartoon reality, one that proposes an ideal of physical beauty that can't actually exist beyond pixels.
Certainly, the end of the ridiculously rail-thin models is a good thing. It's not healthy for anyone, and it is a good thing the women in Wang's study rejected that image as some kind of proxy of themselves.
But there is a long way to go, I would argue, before we reach a point where the situation has actually improved.
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2015年4月4日星期六

Whitney Port eyes TV show with Olivia Palermo

Whitney Port wants to do another TV show with Olivia Palermo.
The 30-year-old fashion designer previously appeared on 'The City' with the 29-year-old socialite and would be keen to work with her again, so long as a new programme had a different format with less "drama".
Asked if she'd work on a show with Olivia again, she said: "To go against each other all the time? I mean yeah. Now it could be fun because we're mature.
"It could be fun but it just depends. I'm not in a place to do a show about drama stuff."
Despite having mutual friends, the pair have only seen each other once since 'The City' ended in 2010.
Whitney Port eyes TV show with Olivia Palermo-Image1
Whitney said: "We were in line on the red carpet last year. We said, 'Hello' and kind of waited together.
"It was just before she got married and that's the only time."
And Whitney revealed Olivia was cast on 'The City' to clash with her after show bosses realized the fireworks they had expected between her and 'The Hills' co-star Lauren Conrad failed to materialize.
She told HELLO!'s Fashion Monthly magazine: "The executive producer for 'The Hills' who then did 'The City' told me initially he thought Lauren and I weren't going to get along, but actually it turned out we became good friends.
"And then for 'The City' I think they knew, 'We're going to make it that Whitney's a fish out of water in New York City and Olivia's got her act together'. She's a girl about town so they wanted that whole dichotomy between us.
"She was always so nice to me. That was the thing. She just has this undertone of kind of being a know-it-all. Then you take that into an editing room..."
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