2015年3月27日星期五

The 10 best model reinventions

There seems to be no end to Cara Delevingne’s talents: muse, trendsetter, international heartbreaker, lion tamer, Pharrell Williams’s waltzing companion, soon-to-be Beyoncé collaborator. OK, lion tamer is a bit of a stretch, but the lion cub she controversially cuddled for a Tag Heuer shoot did look domesticated. Now she has made her feature film debut in Michael Winterbottom’s dramatisation of the Meredith Kercher murder, The Face of an Angel, out this week. Reception to the film has been mixed, but Delevingne’s “striking debut” as a spirited English student, Melanie, is winning plaudits.
The former Elle covergirl and Sports Illustrated swimsuit model was scouted by the same agent who spotted Naomi Campbell at 16. After quitting modelling at 27 she started to plan an alternative career, trying out hypnotherapy, interior design and mechanics, eventually landing on cooking. She was soon baking cakes for Selfridges and presenting BBC baking shows, and in 2009 opened the Cupcake Bakehouse in Covent Garden (sadly now closed). Brownie points for being a patron of fostering and adoption charity Tact, after her experience of both growing up.
Lily Cole in the Palm House at Kews Gardens, to launch Sky Rainforest Rescue - a new three year campaign by Sky and WWF to help save a billion trees in the Amazon.
The Turin-born tyre heiress moved to France aged seven when her family fled Italy to escape a kidnapping threat from far-left terrorist group the Red Brigades. At 19 she dropped out of her art and architecture degree in Paris to become a supermodel and musician (all breathy French vocals and gentle guitar strumming). She quickly became known for her colourful love life: Eric Clapton, Mick Jagger, Donald Trump, French publisher Jean-Paul Enthoven, his son Raphaël. In 2007 she met and soon married the then-president of France Nicolas Sarkozy. Towering four inches above her 5ft 5in husband, Bruni stepped effortlessly into the role of first lady, drawing comparisons to Jackie Kennedy and hanging out with Michelle Obama.When Iman was discovered by photographer Peter Beard in 1973 he claimed that he had found her in the jungle; in reality, the multilingual daughter of a Somali diplomat had been studying political science at Nairobi University. She went on to become the world’s first black supermodel and an outspoken critic of racism in the fashion industry. In 1994 she founded Iman Cosmetics, which offers skincare for women of colour, and is active in numerous charities involving children and Africa. On top of all this, she has been married to David Bowie for nearly 23 years.Dornan spent a large part of the 00s flashing his bronzed, sculpted pectorals on major ad campaigns with Kate Moss and Eva Mendes wrapped around him. Known as male modelling’s “Golden Torso”, at the time he was dating the equally toned Keira Knightley. And, if anything, the following decade has been even kinder to him. The soft-spoken Northern Irishman has entered the world of acting, becoming – albeit reluctantly – the go-to choice for “troubled man who ties up women”. After a stint as the attractive serial killer in BBC drama The Fall he has become the world’s most famous sadomasochistic businessman in Fifty Shades of Grey.The cantankerous creative director of Vogue stole the show from glacial Anna Wintour in documentary The September Issue. The flame-haired, fiery-tempered former model stomped around the office wearing a permanent frown as the two women went head to head over fashion shoots and flatplans. Coddington modelled from the age of 17 until 26, when a car accident left her with facial scars. Now 73, she is one of the most influential women in fashion, with a barnet to rival Rebekah Brooks. There are hints of humour, too: last year she winked at her reputation for surliness by posing with internet meme Grumpy Cat.
Is there more to life than being really, really, ridiculously good-looking? Apparently so, for Lily Cole. The doll-faced overachiever, not content with a stellar modelling career, has gone from strength to strength outside of the fashion world. First there was acting: she shone in The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassusopposite Heath Ledger. Then there was academia: a double first in history of art from Cambridge. And then there is her extensive work with charities and fair trade, and her ethical business enterprise Impossible, which encourages acts of kindness. After she joined a Green party conference debate back in March, rumours began that a political career might be beckoning.
Being bullied at school for being lanky and unusual-looking seems to be a rite of passage for models. Tyra Banks is no exception: from “ugly duckling” she became one of the original Victoria’s Secret angels, 1997’s Supermodel of the Year, and the first African American on the cover of GQ. But modelling was only the beginning: then came an award-winning talk show, a novel, a Harvard Business School course, and appearances on The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air and Coyote Ugly. On her reality TV show America’s Next Top Model, she has invented the concept of a “smize” (a smile you do with your eyes) and has all but trademarked the word “fierce”.
The face of swinging 60s London, “The Shrimp” popularised the miniskirt, was David Bailey’s fiancee and muse, and broke his heart when she left him for Terence Stamp. Often referred to as the world’s first supermodel, she hated being famous and in her early 30s felt she was too old for modelling. So what better way to reinvent yourself than to move to the seaside and open a hotel? In 1979 the former It Girl became Mrs Jean Cox, and with her husband Michael she opened the successful Abbey Hotel in Penzance, now run by their son Thaddeus.Top tip for aspiring models: be Ingrid Bergman’s daughter. Not only will you be genetically blessed with movie-star features, but you will also instantly possess old-school glamour and fame. Rossellini got her her first modelling contract at 28, and she was the face of Lancôme for 14 years. After that she moved into acting, appearing in Robert Zemeckis’s Death Becomes Her and David Lynch’s psychosexual masterpiece Blue Velvet. More recently, her Sundance video projectGreen Porno shed light on the realities of animal intercourse. The next step? Farming: she is doing a masters degree in animal behaviour and conservation, and producing organic food on her 30-acre farm.
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2015年3月22日星期日

Forced-marriage activists reclaim right to wed on own terms

Mariam was a sixth-grader in Toronto when her family started pressuring her to get engaged. They sent her on a summer trip to their native Pakistan, ostensibly to study but actually to meet a fiance chosen by her aunt. When she protested after returning home, she said, her mother kept insisting and wearing her down.
“She cried a lot. She prayed loudly to God that I would change. She refused to speak to me for days. She told me the family’s honor was at stake,” recounted Mariam, now 20, who asked that her last name not be published. “I wanted to finish school and go to college, but at times I almost said yes, just so she would stop crying.”
Finally, when she turned 17, Mariam decided to leave home — an unthinkable act in her culture. With encouragement from a women’s rights group, she slipped out early one morning, taking a small bag. No shelter would accept her, because she had not been physically abused, and she felt racked with guilt and loneliness. Eventually, though, she found housing, friends and a measure of emotional independence.
Mariam, who does not want her last name published, left her family when they pressured her to marry a man in Pakistan chosen by her aunt. Photo: VOISARD / Washington Post / THe WASHINGTON POST
Today, Mariam is active in a growing movement in the U.S. and Canada to promote public awareness and legal protections for victims of forced marriage. She visited Washington, D.C., last week as part of a nationwide tour organized by theTahirih Justice Center, a legal aid and advocacy group in the Virginia suburbs that helps immigrant women facing abuse.
According to officials at Tahirih, a 2011 survey of social agencies and other experts reported as many as 3,000 suspected or confirmed cases of forced marriage in the United States over the previous two years. They said the practice is found in many immigrant communities, especially among South Asians, from the Washington suburbs to ethnic enclaves in cities including Houston, New York and San Francisco.
Nevertheless, they said, there is no U.S. law against the practice, and laws that could help victims in some regions are more geared to victims of kidnapping or physical violence. Moreover, many shelters and welfare agencies are unfamiliar with forced marriage and ill-equipped to help young women fleeing it.
Many traditional societies observe the custom of arranged marriage, in which family relationships matter more than individual choice.
Forced marriage is less common and illegal in most countries, but it is harder to define or prove. A daughter may be ordered to marry someone she may not know or like, such as an older relative, a stranger or someone who is owed a debt. Even if she finally agrees under pressure, activists assert that such marriages are neither fair nor legitimate.
Tahirih has been working for the past three years with a coalition of women’s groups in North America on the campaign to curb forced marriage. They met with White House officials last week, asking for national legislation similar to a new law in the United Kingdom that makes forced marriage a crime.
Mariam said she eventually overcame her guilt and sorrow about leaving home. She was able to enroll in college and earn money making clothes, and she plans to become a fashion designer while keeping up her activism. She never fully reconciled with her parents but said she keeps in touch with them “on my own terms.”
“For me, it is important to talk to victims who are in situations like I was, to let them know they do have options,” she said. “The system failed me, and it fails many girls.”
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2015年3月18日星期三

Charleston Fashion Week 2015 begins

Tuesday evening began with what is beginning to seem like a tradition, the mood being set with music by Daniel D. Charleston Fashion Week Runway Shows opened with a lingerie presentation byBits of Lace. In addition to the glamorous lingerie, Bits of Lace showed children's pajamas and least men feel left out there were stylish boxer shorts. Trés Carmen Boutique presented young cutting edge spring wear.
Capsule collections were presented by Emerging Designers, Sarah Hazel Cannon & Rachel Cole Cannon, Amanda Dreesen, Richelle Valenzuela, and Johanna Hickey & Orea Guthrie.
Sarah Hazel Cannon & Rachel Cole Cannon, winners of Tuesday’s People’s Choice Award, collaborate to design women’s ready to wear under the label Hazel Cole. They combine modern print technology with a classic feminine style reflecting the modern southern woman. Their color palette is tones of grey with a windowpane plaid as a reoccurring theme.
A design by Amanda Dreesen
Amanda Dreesen is a self-taught designer of women’s ready to wear, who designs under the label Dedinger. Her capsule collection was a fusion of costume and fashion with short modern jackets reminiscent of the classic bolero.
Richelle Valenzuela, winner of Tuesday’s Emerging Designer’s Competition, designs men’s ready to wear under the label passaporte. He combines hi-tech fabrics to create clothing that is comfortable, practical and innovative. He mixed Bermuda and cargo shorts to create a hi-tech, innovated, and modern shorts for men.
Johanna Hickey & Orea Guthrie design women’s ready to wear under the label Point Line and Plane. They use fabrics made from natural fibers that are hand-dyed. Their colorful unique prints were refreshing additions to the evening’s neutral monochromatic color palettes.
The show ended with presentations by featured designers Anna Toth and Plante. Anna Toth and Plante were co-winners of last year’s Emerging Designer Competition.
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2015年3月13日星期五

sporty types turn to activewear

As fitness becomes a mainstream aspect of culture, fashion brands are capitalising on the demand for activewear that works both in and out of the gymIt took until the early 1980s for a woman clad in a French-cut leotard and legwarmers to spark the birth of the home video industry. Selling 17 million copies and spawning another 23 related titles, Jane Fonda’s Workoutprompted millions of fitness enthusiasts and fashionistas alike to bring the gym to their living rooms, in the hope that they might one day become something close to Barbarella herself. And, while the title is best remembered for triggering the home video boom, it also gave rise to another, quieter and more colourful revolution – one that has outlived even the VHS tape.
Where once ‘working out’ was a pastime only for bodybuilders and aspiring athletes, the appearance of homemade crop tops, luminous headbands and belted thong leotards marked the beginning of a new era in which the fashion and fitness worlds would be inextricably tied together. Gym-goers, whose bags once contained nothing but an old T-shirt, shorts and a bottle of water, took a more fashionable turn, to the point where the gym of today resembles something close to a catwalk.Blurring the lines
Activewear is increasingly worn in casual situations too
Turn to any corner of a modern-day sports shop and strapped across the chest, legs, bum and underside of every garment is a brand name or distinguishing pattern. Track tops and trousers featured heavily in New York’s fashion week, and will likely feature again in the remaining big three on the circuit. Gone are the days when exercise was merely a means of staying in shape, to the point where keeping fit is now something of a status symbol.
Studies into the phenomenon, conducted by NPD Group, show growth in the activewear sector has consistently outstripped that of the normal apparel market for at least three years. “It’s because consumers are wearing activewear not only to the gym, in the gym, and from the gym, but they are working out, going out, and even hanging out in activewear”, said Marshal Cohen, the group’s Chief Industry Analyst. “Retailers and manufacturers across the board know that activewear is active, and they all want a piece of the action.”
At an impressive 16 percent of the overall apparel market, activewear has played an important role in driving growth, which has clocked in at four, four again and one percent in each of the last three years. Looking at the sector in isolation shows exactly how it is buoying otherwise stagnant numbers, with growth at eight, 10 and seven percent in each of the last three years, and sales are expected to climb further still in the coming months. Whereas the 1980s gave rise to an enduring fashion trend, later developments amount to more of a lifestyle trend.
With the realisation that activewear will be well received by consumers in 2015, established high street brands are, increasingly, looking to claim a piece of the pie. Swedish retailer H&M launched H&M Sport at the beginning of last year, after the company took on the task of kitting out the UK’s Olympic and Paralympic teams. By choosing to climb on board the activewear bandwagon, the world’s number two clothes retailer can move away from the highly competitive budget fashion arena and bolster its bottom line with the higher price points that accompany the fitness sector.
There’s perhaps no other retailer that more clearly illustrates the opportunities in activewear than the Vancouver-based, yoga-focused Lululemon. And while the company has recently lost market share to larger competitors, the retailer’s transformation from little-known local store to $1bn retail giant is testament to the sector’s ascent.
However, retail results have not all been positive, and an often-inhibitive ‘loungewear’ tag and an enduring focus on male-orientated segments has handicapped the activewear market somewhat. Granted, the sector has undergone some much-needed changes in recent years, but store windows are still populated by mostly male mannequins and men still constitute 90 percent of the overall customer base. Add to that an unwillingness to pursue practical and aesthetic changes with quite the same fervour in the women’s category as in the men’s, and it’s clear women’s activewear is lagging some way behind.
However, an emerging trend, wherein the lifestyle aspect of fitness is pushing its way to the fore, has given sports brands reason to believe a focus on the women’s segment will bring with it a boost to their bottom lines. Even sportswear colossus Nike has stated its intention to push into a fast-growing women’s segment, and believes a new line of women’s apparel will tack another $2bn onto annual sales before 2017. At 12 percent, growth in Nike’s women’s business far outpaced its overall top line growth – which stands at nine percent – and company heads believe it could realistically equate to 20 percent of revenues before 2016 is done, up from 18 percent in 2014.
The most important development in the women’s market, however, is not so much attributable to the likes of Nike and Adidas, but to a relatively small band of businesses whose focus falls heavily on the lifestyle and fashion aspect of activewear. New and emerging names such as Sweaty Betty, whose focus on fashion comes with a high price tag, and Fashercise, which started out as a fitness and fashion blog rather than a shop, are capitalising on an underserved women’s segment and challenging the male-dominated status quo.
“The fitness industry’s fashion element mostly speaks to women and most women love fashion”, according to Molly Fox, who began her career in 1979 with Jane Fonda’s Workout and has run Molly Fox Studios for the better part of 14 years. “Women are coming with their friends and want to look good in the mirror”, she says of her studio. “Also, our lifestyle is becoming more casual, and with great design and fantastic marketing, people are becoming more attached to brands.”
For too long, the women’s segment has been populated by baby blue and hot pink attire, but the introduction of new, fashion-forward companies has brought with it new growth opportunities and a more progressive retail strategy. Major names are partnering with major designers, as is the case with Adidas and English designer Stella McCartney, and independent labels are proving to major brands that there are untapped opportunities in women’s activewear.
As a result, choice in the women’s segment is no longer limited to a few simple garments, and the introduction of smaller brands has brought with it a much-needed boost to the sector, in terms of sales and, more importantly for the future, in terms of innovation.
Where once Jane Fonda introduced fashion to the gym, the gym has more recently introduced itself to fashion. With the activewear market slowly getting rid of its loungewear reputation and with more independent labels catering for women, the sector shows promise for the future as it continues to blur the boundaries between fitness and fashion.
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2015年3月7日星期六

Allison [in wine country] fashions a Napa Valley niche

Allison Molinatti is bringing to the Napa Valley a sister shop to her Manhattan Beach store, Allison [by the beach], through which she sells women’s clothing and accessories. Her new venue is called Allison [in wine country], and with it she hopes to provide a line of products more tailored to her new location.
“Allison [in wine country] differs from Allison [by the beach] in that it’s geared for the Napa Valley local so it’s a bit more casual and doesn’t have as beachy a vibe as my other store,” Molinatti, said. “It also differs because we carry children’s clothes. My first location only carries women’s clothing and accessories whereas this one also carries children’s clothing and gifts.”
“There was a real need for children’s items in St. Helena as there is no other store in town that carries children’s clothes,” she said. “We wanted moms, grandparents and tourists to be able to pick up clothes for their little ones.”
Tara Rokstad and Allison Molinatti at Allison [in wine country] in St. Helena
Bringing in a partner to help her run Allison [in wine country], Molinatti has hired family friend Tara Rokstad.
“I am so lucky to have Tara as a partner as she puts in just as much hard work as I do, and goes the extra mile to make sure all our clients are happy and have the absolute best service they can get,” Molinatti said.
A point of pride for Molinatti regarding her store is the kind of clothing she offers. “I am always aware of what’s on trend and the next up-and-coming thing, however I make sure that my stores have pieces that are special yet classic so that they won’t go out of style after a season.”
With a degree in economics from Loyola Marymount University and a merchandise marketing degree from the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Molinatti is well-equipped to run her clothing business. It’s a point proven by her first location’s loyal clientele, attained over the four years it has been open.
The success of her company is, apart from her passionate interest in fashion, perhaps also due to Molinatti’s emphasis on attention to the customer.
“I have so much fun picking out the best pieces for my stores … I really think about my clientele when I’m ordering for my stores. I know right away which local clients are going to want which pieces and call them as soon as (the pieces) come in. I get a very limited amount of each style in so that not everyone will be wearing the same outfit and also so that we get new merchandise almost every day,” Molinatti said.
Part of Allison [in wine country]’s, along with her Manhattan Beach counterpart’s, customer-centric approach is that they offer a free-of-charge personal shopping and delivery service.
“(One of) the most important things customers can get at my business is exceptional customer service. I’ve built my businesses on having personal relationships with my clients. I text my clients to let them know certain things are in that I know they’ll like before they sell out as well as bring merchandise to their homes for them to try on. This personal shopping aspect of my business is one of the things that sets us apart.”
While those services are free, prices for her other products can range from $18 to $88 for children’s clothing (of which the store carries up to size 10), and $15-$25 for toys and gifts. Women’s tops range from $48-$198 and dresses and jumpsuits from $98 to $330. Jewelry and handbags go from as low as $40 on up to $585.
Some of the designers Allison [in wine country] will be carrying include Splendid, Ella Moss and David Lerner, as well as handmade jewelry by Edina Kiss and bags likewise handmade by L.A.-based designer Hammitt.
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2015年3月6日星期五

Nafa student jumps at chance to design fairytale gowns

Miss Erica Devi Handika has long been in love with Disney's princesses.
So when the opportunity came to design a gown for her favourite princess, Cinderella, the petite 23-year-old Indonesian jumped at the chance.
"I have always been a big fan of Disney and its princesses," the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts (Nafa) student said.
"I have watched the cartoons and movies since I was a kid, so I immediately volunteered for this project when I heard about it."
Walt Disney Studios Singapore approached Nafa last year to create a mini collection as part of the publicity campaign for the upcoming Cinderella movie.
Nafa student jumps at chance to design fairytale gowns
What materialised was the Disney's Cinderella Inspired Dresses Designed by Nafa project, which consisted of gowns for characters such as Cinderella, her Stepmother, the Fairy Godmother and an SG50 dress as part of the celebration of Singapore's golden jubilee.
Opening here on March 12, Cinderella sees British actress Lily James in the title role in director Kenneth Branagh's live-action retelling of Disney's classic fairy tale about a servant girl who wins the heart of a prince (Richard Madden).
Cate Blanchett plays the formidable Lady Tremaine, Cinderella's wicked stepmother, while Helena Bonham Carter is the kind fairy godmother.
Miss Handika took about a month to come up with various designs for each of the four costumes, turning to all the Cinderella movies she has watched over the years for inspiration.
It helped that the Singapore permanent resident, who is pursuing a fashion degree offered in collaboration with the University Of East London, is really interested in costume design.
She recently volunteered her services as costume designer for The Chest Of Shadows: A Musical, which was held last month at the Victoria Theatre as part of the Indonesian Arts Festival in Singapore.
While creating the gowns came naturally to the die-hard Disney princess fan, she sought assistance from Mr Anthony Tan, the vice- dean of Nafa's Fashion Studies Programmes, to help fine-tune her designs.
"It was a consultative interaction between Erica and I," said Mr Tan.
FASHION ELEMENT
"My advice to Erica was that the fashion element needs to be a priority, and to be mindful not to turn these dresses into fancy costumes."
Mr Tan, who has been teaching fashion design for more than 15 years, added: "We went fabric shopping together as well. While she was the one leading the selection, my role was to provide advice on which fabric will work better and what will be effective to achieve her vision."
Miss Handika, who wanted to pursue fashion design since she was 13, attributed her interest in costume design to her mother.
"She used to make me princessy gowns when I was a kid, even though I had no events to go to," she shared, laughing.
When we met last week, she had only the duchess satin Cinderella gown made and had yet to put the finishing touches - the bling, in the form of Swarovski crystals.
Swarovski has sponsored more than $21,000 worth of crystals in a variety of shapes and sizes (right) to be featured on the costumes.
Besides getting the frocks ready before this Saturday, where it will be modelled at the Disney's Cinderella Fashion Show at 313@somerset, Miss Handika is also preparing her final-year collection.
But juggling a few projects at a time does not seem to faze the energetic student.
She is confident all will be ready in no time, as she is "used to tight deadlines", said the finalist of the 2014 Star Creation Award, an international contest organised by Audi Fashion Week, adding that she spends about "13 hours a day in school".
Her masterpieces will also be on display at 313@somerset from Sunday to March 14, and then at Kallang Wave Mall from March 15 to 27.
Three costumes - Stepmother, Fairy Godmother and the SG50 gown - will subsequently be auctioned off for charity, with proceeds going to the Asian Women's Welfare Association.
Though she cited the Stepmother's dress as her favourite because of its "striking emerald-green colour and edginess", there is no question which gown she would pick if given the chance to keep it.
"The Cinderella dress, of course!" Miss Handika declared, laughing.
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