Fine jewelry designer, a clinical neurologist and neurophysiologist, retired professor from Case Western Reserve University School of Medicine
Your accent is wonderful. Where are you from?
I am from Spain and I grew up in Bogota, Columbia. I returned to Spain to study medicine. I came to the United States, first to San Francisco in 1982 then I moved to Cleveland in 1985.
Tell me about your journey from medicine to designer.
Fifteen years ago I decided to continue teaching at Case and to be involved in the areas that I love to work with including philanthropy. I've been part of wonderful organizations including The Cleveland Foundation, MetroHealth, The Cleveland Ballet, the Red Cross and others. Cleveland has been wonderful to me. It has been great for my personal maturity, as a person, a human, and a philanthropist.
How did you discover your talent for design?
Many physicians have a talent for the arts. I discovered the inclination and the talent that I inherited from my mother. She was a great haute couture designer and a businesswoman with her own company. She also created wonderful oil paintings. She designed big time fashions. I was always observing her and the beautiful things and miracles that she created with her hands. It looked like she was sculpting.
When I was young, I also enjoyed science. My father understood that I liked the arts, but wanted me to do something with my scientific side. He was a student of Chinese culture and said that medicine is listed as a healing art among the arts in China. That caught my attention and I went to medical school.
When did you discover jewelry design?
I had gone to a bead show with my son who was collecting stones and I discovered the beautiful beads. I bought rubies and sapphires and thought I would create things for my mother, my sister and myself. I wasn't considering selling anything. I realized I have a lot of designs in me. It was a great period of personal discovery. It was such a surprise when people liked my creations. It was relaxing and I was very busy with it. Then my friends started asking me to make custom designs for them.
How do you go from creating jewelry at home to being in the showcases of Saks Fifth Avenue?
I prepared a small collection. I had a friend who was a part owner of Yeager's Jewelers in Westlake. We had a small show and sold all of the pieces. After that I developed a line, made cards and flyers, I talked with people and then introduced myself to three managers at Saks. They liked my work and came to my studio. One of them thought I was very convincing so I was accepted into 20 Saks stores on consignment. It was only two years after I began my line.
That's so exciting. Was your line a success?
I was in stores in Beachwood, Manhattan, Chicago, and several cities in California, Texas, Florida, all over. Each store had about 20 pieces. I have an eye for accessorizing people and the customers liked the pieces and what I did with them.
What happened next?
I was still working at The Cleveland Clinic. Through a patient, I met Oscar de la Renta. I learned he was a great philanthropist. He had a center for children in the Dominican Republic. We met, I donated a piece of jewelry for him to raffle off at his fundraiser. I presented it to him at a luncheon in Washington, D.C. He invited me to an event for Hispanic designers that same night. My mother always taught me that you have to be in the right place at the right time, but on top of that you must always be ready for anything. Have the right clothes in your wardrobe for any occasion. But in this case, the wife of the Ambassador of Spain invited me to stay with them. We were the same size. She loaned me evening wear and a boa and we became friends for life.
How did you end up showing in Fashion Week in Madrid?
I met Spanish designer Javier Larrainzar at the same event for Hispanic designers and for seven years I created pieces and accessorized his designs for the runway shows twice a year. Through that, I was featured in Spanish Vogue. And just last February, I accessorized the models for the Malan Breton Fall/Winter 2015 Women's Collection during New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. There's a YouTube video of the show.
Are you a silversmith? Do you build each piece?
No, I am the designer and I control the business. I have jewelers here who do the 14K gold work and jewelers in Spain do the 18K gold pieces. I have someone in Columbia who makes replicas modeled after pieces in the museum. I have stringers and carvers. My best carvers are in Germany. I have a team all over the world.
Do you still go the bead trade shows to look at stones?
I go to some of them. I go to Brazil, Spain, New York and Tucson. I am creating constantly and finding inspiration everywhere.
Where can people buy your amazing designs?
My website ismarisedesignstore.That is the best place. The prices range from $200 to $10,000. I left Saks two years ago. My jewelry is also at The Museum Store and at the gift shop at the Intercontinental Hotel. And in July and August, I will be in the gift shop at Severance Hall.
Your pieces are beautiful; you have an eye for finding the artisans who work with you.
Yes, for instance, the cameos carved out of agate are made in Germany and a man in China carves the beautiful stone flowers. Through the Internet, we send photographs and we work together across the world. I always network. I found the Chinese man at the big gem show in Tucson.
Where does your sense of style come from?
My mother was my biggest influence and I read all the fashion magazines when I was young. I developed my own style early. When I told my mother that I was leaving medicine and starting a jewelry company, she was not surprised. She said that when I was little I always wanted to go to two places with her. The beauty salon and the jewelry store. I was good at drawing my mother's ideas and instructions for the jeweler.
Do you still start your designs with drawings?
Yes, I love to draw. Sometimes, I draw with a person in mind. I design while thinking about how the piece will lay on the skin, the length and the colors that will work best. Sometimes a beautiful stone will give me the ideas. I love to redesign pieces, too. My pieces are custom, one-of-a-kind and haute couture.
What is your best advice?
I recommend to my clients that they don't have to follow the trends. They might not be for them. We all have to learn how to develop our own style that makes us look our best.
Describe your personal style.
I am eclectic. I am an end result of my experiences. A mature lady must look elegant first. The length of the skirt must be the Chanel look, at the knee. Sometimes, I wear something a little edgy, for a special event. I take good care of myself through everything I've learned through medicine. I exercise and I don't smoke or drink. Genes play an important part, but there are things you can do to prevent and to take care of yourself.
Which clothing designers do you like?
I like Ellen Tracy, Ann Taylor, Elie Tahari, Evan Picone, Oscar de la Renta and Javier Larrainzar. It doesn't matter who makes it if it is unique, high quality and elegant. I have pieces that I've had for many years. My mother taught me that fashion is not about buying something new every day, it's about keeping the things that you look good in and taking good care of them. I look for good fabric and classic, serious designs. I always wear a two-piece suit. I go to many meetings. I like to volunteer in the community and I always donate my creations to raise money.
I can't believe I'm asking but what are your favorite accessories?
I love pins, brooches. I love flowers and coins in jewelry. I also love scarves and bags. I love amethyst. It's my birthstone. Purple is a great color. Egyptians and Romans only allowed royalty to wear purple. It's also a healing stone.
Purple is my favorite color, too. How do you choose a look?
I am the opposite of many people. I often decide on a piece of jewelry first and then I pick the clothes. I choose the jewelry depending on the feeling I have that day. I get feelings from people, too. Minerals have energy that we can sometimes feel. I am a healer in more ways than one.
Why does it mean to have style?
Style is so personal. It's the way we dress, accessorize and present ourselves to others. We convey an instant message about ourselves to people who don't know us. That can be a problem, too. If a person is very well dressed, others might instantly think that they are stuck up. The reality can be very different. I don't make judgments or take anyone for granted. People in the simplest jogging suits have bought my most expensive pieces.
And lastly...
I feel that human beings have so many facets, like jewels. I am thankful to have been able to discover my facets and I've been able to do something with that.
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