Off-White Spring 2016 Honors the Working Man

At this point it seems almost too wrong to slot Off-White into the rapidly growing "streetwear-meets-luxury" brand profile. Sure, the simply catchyleathers, jeans, and tees from Virgil Abloh's label have earned major celebrity praise. Add in his recent LVMH award nomination, and Abloh has proven to the public that he's hustling to create—not just hit collections or pieces—a hit brand.
The mix between tongue-in-cheek references with conceptual reinterpretation—as seen in Off-White's Spring 2016 collection—shows that Abloh is well on his way to establishing his own aesthetic in the realm of luxury design.
The collection, titled "Blue Collar", draws not just from the working class, but a literal reworking of the blue collared uniforms of England's Royal Mail postmen.

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It wasn't just that he sourced the old postman uniforms to simply re-present them in Paris (though, to be fair, there were a few pieces that seemed completely recycled in full). Instead, Abloh spliced the oxfords into wool topcoats, creating entirely new body panels or shirting arm bands.
But it wasn't just the shirting that was redone either; uniform-grade khakis were reconstructed into jackets, full on shirting, and...well high-waisted, pleated khakis.
Naturally, the designer did include T-shirts. The latest augmentation—not just graphics, but uneven hems—looked like, as Style puts it: "a sartorial glitch."
The most blue collar of fabrics (literally and metaphorically), denim, received it's due as well. The final four looks of Off-White's presentation were full-on Canadian tuxedos. Considering that Off-White's denim is one of it's most visible products, it seems like a combination of the brand's ability to simultaneously play to its strengths, while still remaining firmly "in theme."As Abloh continues to move his label higher on the luxury ladder, it's conceptual collections like this that earn him even more fans: from high-fashion bastions to celebrity red carpets. Just expect Abloh to get there in his own time, and (more importantly) in his own way. We just can't help but feel like this is Abloh's blue collar grind—blooming into full-on success.
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How Loralee Baron-Soong Makes Fashion Her Business

SoFA Design Institute co-founder Loralee Baron-Soong’s philosophy to design is simple and tested. “Good design is one that is appealing, functional, and sturdy; not only must it be beautiful, it must serve its function as a product, and be of quality,” she shares. Seeing how this vision is shared by emerging Filipino designers, she wanted to provide them with opportunities to study fashion right here rather than needing to go abroad.
Continuing to develop the Philippines not only as a fashion capital but also as a design mecca, Loralee understands that appreciating the fashion industry doesn’t stop at simply admiring the collections. It’s about looking at the business aspect as well. “It was a very enriching experience for me to travel the world’s fashion capitals (New York, Paris, Milan, Hong Kong) regularly to view the latest collections and meet with luxury brand representatives to learn how they would market their brands.”

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She takes cues from the international scene to forward the local trajectory. “It is in this same experience that I’ve come to appreciate the unique identity and potential of Filipino design and saw the opportunity to grow Filipino talents through establishing a specialized design college. This would eliminate the need to go abroad and pursue studies in design, empowering Filipino designers to grow their brands in the same standard as those abroad,” she believes.
With this, she is positive that fashion, design, and creative talent will not only be limited to its initial borders. “Creative thought is actually essential to almost any field! it’s always important, even if you’re working in a desk job, to find a solution that is creative.”
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Designer Todd Oldham to have solo exhibit at RISD museum

Todd Oldham may have left fashion behind nearly 20 years ago, but an upcoming exhibit will celebrate the multidisciplinary designer's enduring sense of style.
"All of Everything: Todd Oldham Fashion" is scheduled to open next spring at the Rhode Island School of Design Museum. It's the first solo museum exhibition to focus on the designer's runway opus of the 1990s. It will feature nearly 70 ensembles, many of which were last seen on supermodels like Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington.
Oldham and RISD collaborated to make the pieces new again, mixing seasons and years to create a fresh point of view.

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"I said, 'Why don't we try to look at how this stuff works together?' It's not a season; it's 10 years of stuff," Oldham said. "It worked beautifully."
Oldham arrived on the fashion scene in 1989 and gained recognition for his colorful designs and handcrafted textiles. The Nueces County, Texas, native was featured prominently on MTV's "House of Style," hosted by Cindy Crawford, where he gave viewers tips on everything from thrift shopping to reupholstering furniture.
He left the industry a decade later to pursue other creative projects, including his arts and crafts line Kid Made Modern, and he often gives lectures at RISD, which awarded him an honorary doctorate last year.
For the upcoming show, Oldham is designing one new dress, made from textiles he and his RISD students made in a class last spring.
"We're still working on it because it's got a ton of elaborate embroidery," he said.
Known for his playful point of view, Oldham said shifting back into fashion design was easy because he has the same spirit no matter what he's working on.
"I wouldn't in any way say it ignited a desire to return to this industry," he added with a laugh.
The idea for the exhibit came about last year, while Oldham was touring the RISD museum. Curator Kate Irvin was installing some 1920s beaded dresses that immediately caught the eye of the designer, known for his own highly embellished textiles.
Irvin, the museum's costume and textiles curator, said Oldham's designs are striking in person.
"The significance is what a thoughtful artist and maker he is, and that comes through when you see these pieces," she said.
And while some of the pieces are more than 20 years old, they don't seem dated, Irvin said.
"It wasn't made in the '90s with the idea that this is the fashion trend for the season, and I think that will come through when we put these pieces on display in 2016," she said.
Oldham is giving many of his designs to RISD, and a few will be on loan from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City for the show.
Meanwhile, Oldham said he continues to be inspired by passion, singularity — and free-thinkers.
"Those are usually the things that startle me in great ways more than anything else," he said. "Frankly, I think Miley Cyrus is astonishing."
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Images haunting the role of women

I know. If you read another inch of newsprint dissecting the transgender life of Bruce Jenner, you will pack up and move to Canada! It’s too much, right, the air-brushed photos of a former Olympic athlete, posing in a white satin one-piece bathing suit, showing off cleavage and painted fingernails?
The cover of Vanity Fair magazine with Bruce, now Caitlyn, Jenner, smiling, sporting a come hither haircut and a small waistline, is all vanity and man-made glamour, words that continue to haunt the image of women.
Caitlyn Jenner may offer new hope for young lives struggling with gender issues, but a swimsuit pinup magazine cover amps up the pressure. No matter, male or female at birth, once a member of the fairer sex, an admiring eye tends to follow those who are, well, fairer!

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In a recent article by a writer of novels whose photograph had been barely noticeable on her book’s cover, she bemoans the exposure of body and soul to the public as she chats up her novel on TV and at book stores around the country.
Suddenly, each phone aimed in her direction includes a camera and every gray hair on her head is a flaw. She writes she is considering Botox injections to get rid of frown lines. At the same time she is preaching inner beauty to her daughters and reminding them who they are matters more than how they look, she is pondering Spanx as under-armor to smooth out a waistline with more than an inch to pinch!
Though in our most grown-up moments, we know faithfulness and talent trump toned and tanned Victoria’s Secret beauties with legs up to yonder, we are drawn to how women look. This year, for the first time, designers from the fashion world offered evening gowns to actors presenting Tony Awards.
Gifted performances on the Broadway stage are what count, but, if a television audience is to tune in and be attentive, viewers want to be surprised by sequins and satin, the drama as lace trails a form-fitting dress.
So, we are of two minds. We enjoy beauty, women as “eye candy,” but, hopefully, we also want to see them applauded for their unique gifts, for leadership and research, for empathy and brain power. The hang up is we have an urge to step back when we see them as too powerful.
Bryce Covert, who is the economic policy editor at ThinkProgress, filled an opinion column with views and statistics on the frustrating role of women who do get a chance at CEO roles in companies today, though, too often, only when they are pushed off “the glass cliff,” expected to magically cure corporate ills in a time of turmoil.
He reminds us Congress is less than 20 percent female and it’s been nearly a century since the first woman was elected to the House of Representatives. Should we agree it is more tempting to peg a woman, sure of her convictions, as “a politician,” (read: Sen. Elizabeth Warren), than it is to pin that put-down tag on a man?
Is there the sure knowledge the path for women leading to the highest office in the land will be easier this time? Hillary Clinton and Carly Fiorina, both candidates for president, are running as part of a procession of others who marched, protested and finally bent history in their direction.
Caitlyn Jenner may have a reality show, be paid a lot of money, pose for magazine covers and grant interviews, but to make a difference in today’s world as a woman, she’ll need more than plastic surgery and bikini waxes.
A woman needs courage to break the mold, finding her inner and true voice. But, at some point in her life, God willing, there will be that moment of truth, when, even with cheekbones that could cut glass, she looks across a table at a husband, partner or king of the workplace and says: “Take me seriously. I am more than a pretty face.”
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Gloucestershire University: Festival Fortnight catwalk show

With gifted alumni, nearly £2 million investment and a wealth of new facilities, the University of Gloucestershire is returning to its roots as a dynamic fashion leader.
Fashion Design course leader, Margaret McDonough, has a wealth of experience up her sleeve following a career that combines commercial designing for high street fashion brands and fashion education.
And on Friday, June 12, her students will be celebrating the end of their first year with a fashion show at the university's Francis Close Hall campus in Cheltenham, in partnership with Art Couture Painswick and Gloucestershire College.

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For Margaret, building relationships is key to student success, including working with Gloucester-based shirt maker Emma Willis, whose clients include US President Barack Obama and actor Benedict Cumberbatch.
"Since the launch of the new course in 2014, Emma has been very keen to support its development," she said, "particularly in garment construction and giving students the skills they need to be employment-ready. We've worked together to develop a shirt production module."
Cheltenham-based global brand Superdry has committed to an initial three year programme of collaboration with the course which will see the brand's design and creative teams provide expert industry advice, guidance and practical experience to students.
Margaret said: "Our first year has been packed with fantastic learning experiences and exciting collaborations.
"We have undertaken our first live industry brief with students designing and making concept garments for Superdry.
"Students loved the opportunity to meet and present their work to the Superdry design team, which included a number of designers who have guest lectured on the module. Three students have been offered work placements with the brand over the summer."
New students in September will be involved in projects linked to key events such as Clothes Show Live, Cheltenham Fashion Week and the Stroud International Textile Festival.
Friday's fashion show is part of the university's Festival Fortnight, which features a range of community events, most of which are free.
"It will celebrate the return of the course and we hope promote local interest in fashion, couture, sustainability and making," said Margaret.
Angus Pryor, head of the School of Art and Design added: "We want to produce the next generation of fashion designers that will leave their mark on the community, and once again establish Cheltenham and the University of Gloucestershire as the place to be educated in fashion design."
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Top fashion designer in Seychelles for the “Miss Seychelles…Another World” pageant 2015

Top French fashion designer Yannick Machado graced the crowning night of “Miss Seychelles…Another World” 2015 that took place on May 30.
Mr. Machado started designing since the age of 12. He was born in Lyon France and had a proper fashion education at Supdemod France.
He then started working for top French designers whereby he learned more about the fashion world.
“Seven years ago I moved to China. At first I started teaching in a fashion university then I developed my own brand,” he said.
With more than 10 years in fashion designing, Mr. Machado said he has always been interested in elegance, clothes and fabrics.

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The style I wanted to do was what the Chinese were asking for - customized designs, he added.
He started off with private clientele mainly based in China, Taiwan and Singapore, his creativity soon inspired his first couture collection comprising high-end bridal and evening wears.
“I set up my studio in Beijing, Shanghai and I recently started my men’s line,” he said.
Mr. Machado added that he targets people who socialize because it is always risky for them to have an outfit that is potentially not the same as someone else.
By having a highly customized design, they can be reassured that no one else will have this outfit, he added.
“Every single client of mine inspire me. I get from their personalities and events they are attending,” he said.
Some of the top celebrities who have worn his designs Lin ChiLing from Taiwan, Fann Wong of Singapore and Chen from China.
Miss Seychelles…Another World 2012 Sherlyn Furneau, who was the mistress of ceremony for the crowning night was wearing one of Mr. Machado’s designs.
“I believe the one who will win this year’s crown will have to be able to represent Seychelles all the time, be clear when she speaks, elegant and poised.
“It is not judge a pretty face but also the body language is a vital component,” he added.
Mr. Machado has been asked to design a few outfits for the Miss Seychelles…Another World 2014 Camila Estico and the one who will be crowned on Saturday as part of the Miss Seychelles campaign in China. One of its aims is to build up Miss Seychelles’ image in China, thus to further promote Seychelles as one of the best travel destinations.
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