At a talk by iconic British textile designer Zandra Rhodes, Shuhada Elis is all ears
HER hair, in a shocking fuchsia hue, is not the only thing that makes heads turn. Everything about Zandra Rhodes demands a second look.
With her large, chunky stone necklaces, enormous rings and eyes emphasised by thick eyeliner and eyeshadow, Rhodes, 73, projects confidence and boldness.
Although not everyone knows of the British textile designer, those who are familiar with her much-celebrated works flocked to the National Textile Museum in Kuala Lumpur recently to hear her speak. She was in town for her first exhibition in Southeast Asia titled A Lifelong Love Affair With Textiles.
AROUND THE WORLD
Rhodes is a fashion traveller. She not only travels in style but also travels to design.
She finds inspiration all over the world. She explores shapes, patterns and colours in different parts of the globe and is very sentimental about her designs. “I have saved almost every original garment I have designed because they tell the story of my life.”
Her passion for textiles led Rhodes to open her own Fashion and Textile Museum in London in 2003 to showcase her past works and unseen collections as well as exhibitions by other British and international designers.
When Rhodes travels, she brings home ideas in the form of sketches to complete her designs. “I play around with sketches all the time. I’m a very messy designer.
“I don’t design on computer. I carry my sketchbook wherever I go,” says Rhodes who drew the city’s skyline from her hotel window.
“I’d like to take a trip around Malaysia. There are so many colours here which can translate into fabulous designs,” she says.
Reminiscing her early creations, Rhodes says she went to the (National) Museum Of The American Indian in the United States in 1969 and fell in love with the intricacy of the beautiful feathers.
She returned to London and developed the feathers into a print design which looked as though they were sewn on with cross-stitches. She also created silk chiffon “feathers” by cutting around the individual printed feathers and hand rolling the edges.
Such is her affection for culture and heritage that when she went to China and India, Rhodes returned with silk prints and sari-inspired dresses.
“I created the pagoda sleeves top for the 1979 Chinese collection while India has inspired me with the one-sided sari-draped dress, bursting with colours.”
LOVER OF COLOURS
“My girls say I’m a colourist,” says Rhodes. She loves bright and brash colour patterns and enjoys exploring different shades in her designs.
Rhodes exploded into the fashion scene with her colourful women’s wear and accessories as well as her brightly-coloured hair. “I always fill all the surfaces with colour,” she says of her designs.
Even for winter, when outfits are confined to cool and dark colours, Rhodes says she never compromises.
“I have a lovely shocking pink jacket for winter,” she adds.
She takes pride in her button flower coat in bright yellow and multicoloured kaftans and dresses.
But there are also collections in which she plays with less colour, such as her African collection which is inspired by zebras.
BIG NAMES
Rhodes was one of a few designers who put London at the forefront of the international fashion scene in the 1970s.
She used to design for the late Princess Diana who was a good friend, and continues to be a choice of other members of royalty and celebrities.
“I received a memo saying that there was going to be a royal wedding but I didn’t know then that it was for Princess Diana. I made a grand gold gown. It was not chosen but it’s one of my favourites in the Renaissance/Gold collection,” says Rhodes who also designed silk chiffon dresses for Diana in the mid-1980s
She has also designed several costumes for Freddie Mercury, particularly the pleated “winged” designs in heavy white satin for Queen’s show at Earl’s Court in the 1970s.
Perhaps soon we will see Rhodes dressing up her well-heeled clients in batik or songket-influenced designs.
“I need to look around this country. Maybe I’d have some ideas on head-scarves as well,” she says.
A Lifelong Love Affair With Textiles.
Where: Saindera Gallery, National Textile Museum, Kuala Lumpur.
When: Until Jan 12.
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