Betwixt and Between

A FEW YEARS AGO, you managed to survive without the precollection collection, and life was good. One less thing, right?

No doubt you picked up a few things between seasons, as one does, but you were not aware that you were buying into a special category that would soon be invasive, the kudzu of couture.

Runway shows from major designers like Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons generally satisfy because they are interpretive or they make us consider something about the future. We shouldn’t have the same expectation of precollections, even if they’re the biggest sellers (by virtue of being in stores longer). What matters most is that the clothes give shape to a brand’s identity. The marketplace is just too crowded to put up with weeds.

The prefall collections sprawl over six weeks, ending in early January. Among the clear winners are Narciso Rodriguez and Angela Missoni. Mr. Rodriguez positions his structured T-tops, notched blazers and cigarette pants right where they should be: as extensions of his minimalist aesthetic. The block checks and etched patterns are invitations to add a bold graphic detail without looking foolish. He finishes up with a dusting of pink and lilac, in a sweet mini-coat or a bomber seemingly based on a sweatshirt.

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Ms. Missoni’s predominantly black and white knits are also graphic but in a more subtle way. Some of the pattern swirls suggest clusters of birds in flight, while textures of lacy tops look feathery. The shapes themselves are urban and versatile.

Donna Karan’s collection of clean-looking jackets and flattering wrap skirts (with good lengths) came as a relief after her touristy spring show of ethnic prints. She just got down to timeless Karan separates like white shirts and long, slim-cut blazers — and, no, they’re not boring and basic.

Gauchos and wide-leg trousers appear in a number of collections, including Proenza Schouler and Phillip Lim, but they are not as diverting as skirts, which come fringed (at10 Crosby Derek Lam), flowing (Theory), layered (Oscar de la Renta) and deeply slit (Altuzarra).

Mr. Altuzarra’s use of plaids is consistent with his ability to mine commonplace things in fresh ways. He repeats layered knits, making them a signature, and he fills out his line with plain but sharply cut dresses that convey his silhouette. Next summer, when the precollections hit the stores and you’re bored with everything, you may notice his colors: the burnt orange, leaf brown and sky blue mixed in with navy. That’s a good way to stand out.

Among the other high notes in the precollections, so far, are Alexander Wang’s blousy anoraks and exaggerated over-the-knee boots, the sleeveless wool coats at Oscar de la Renta (and some lovely, wispy cocktail dresses) and the cozy sack shapes at Calvin Klein. Its women’s designer, Francisco Costa, did something quite unexpected with all the fuzzy Céline textures and furry slippers. The clothes are more soulful than refined, with a few looks, like a fuzzy, pale pink mini-coat, winning the fashion sweepstakes.

And fall is still months away.

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